Gaggan

| December 17, 2011 | 0 Comments

Before we visited Gaggan(the chef and the restaurant uses the same name), We’ve experienced chef Gaggan’s cooking and hospitality before from RED. My experience from his cooking then was a good one. He is a very creative and very friendly chef . His Indian dishes have an Italian influence. Now he has open his own signature restaurant for about a year. I’ve wanted to check his new place out since the beginning but did not have the chance, until recently.


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Our visit was during the height of flood anxiety in Bangkok. Therefore, we did not get to see the bustling ambience of the restaurant during serving hours. The restaurant is located at a 70 year old renovated house in a small soi in Langsuan road. In general, the restaurant’s theme is cozy all white ambiance. Customers have option to dine indoor or enjoy the dinner outdoor under the moonlight. We were seated at the show case table by a window to the kitchen. But the window was opaque until the kitchen starts to cook our meal it mysteriously turns transparent.

There are a la carte menu and the surprise menus. The surprise menu has 3 levels. Dinners can choose between level 1, 2, or 3. Level 1(1,600) is a 10 course surprise meal with options of main dish.  Level 2 (2,300) is level 1 + one additional main dish. Level 3 (3,000) is level 1 + two additional main dishes. For level 1 to be a surprise we were not told what each courses would be. Only level 2 and 3 we get to choose the main. We chose level 3. (Gaggan changes his surprise menu very often, once a week. So each meal might be different from this.) From the beginning, chef Gaggan came to greet and educate us about his food throughout meal. The meal lasted approximately 3-hours.

Just to start the chef play with our scenes with a spoon filled with a white gelatin form. It tasted like egg-yolk but it was actually all yogurt.

Refreshing  pina rock Gaggan’s version of pinacalada, chilled pineapple juice and cheese like cream.

Next was premium raw oyster from Holland served with Indian lemon foam and garnished with blue ocean flower. The flower makes this dish more interesting because it also has an oyster like after taste. An interesting selection from the chef to use oysters from Holland. There are from a small seaside town called Zeeland. It  was the first time I had them.

During the starting of the dinner the chef recommended a Reisling from Cliff Edge.

Carrot beetroot sandwich with herb mousse, also with the beautiful blue ocean flower a morsel that I wish to have as my every day snack.

Another interesting ingredient selection, organic Hungarian foie gras using sous-vide technique to cook (vacuum sealed in a plastic bag and cook in low temperature) then torched with a sprinkle of sugar for crisp caramelized texture like crème brȗlée. The foie gras was smaller from what I usually have because they are organic, very buttery and almost melted in the mouth.

Delicious potato paneer ravioli with pea-sauce and black truffle. So far I don’t feel this is Indian food, this is probably the first dish but it also has an Italian influence.

Long Island ice tea to cleanse the pallet before the next course. Hot peach-scented tea was poured into frozen liquor (by liquid nitrogen) in the bottom of the glass.

This is one of the selected main from level 3. Chef Gaggan uses top quality Spanish iberico pork in his pork vindaloo. The succulent pork was tender and already tasty by itself. The semi-spicy curry helped add another dimension to this well executed dish. Along with this the chef recommended a medium body red “Casale Vecchio”

Oyster- leaf served with a dab of honey. We were surprised to learn that there are two different veggies that taste like oyster.

Delicious morel mushroom kebabs with pineapple chutney.

Sous-vide egg cooked at 55 degree served with mushroom masala. The egg yolk is form like boiled egg but has a really soft and moist texture.

This lamb-chop was probably one of the best I ever had, perfectly cooked, paired with whipped butter and berry sauce accompanies with a rare flower and the smallest cucumber I’ve tasted. it was served covered, once lifted a smokey aroma touched our senses and appealed to my appetite. This is another dish that was chosen for level 3.

For the main course (level 1): a choice of chicken tikka with coriander foam or spicy mutton masala served with butter and original Naan. There were 4 of us in our table; we made sure to order a different dish to share. They were both very good with the naan bread. The mutton was a bit sweet for me. I preferred the juicy tasty chicken.


For deserts: Rose jelly and lychee soup. This is a very beautiful dish just to look at. The jelly was slightly sweet while the soup was sour, a good combination.

This is a dessert that packs a punch. Like a very rich chocolate cake. Instead of chocolate it is saffron. Sweet scent of saffron made me crave for more of this ice-cream. It even leaves a long after taste.

In sum, Gaggan was a great dining experience– rare ingredients, excellent service and creative chef. I really like the rare flowers and ingredient use in this meal. I don’t know if this is progressive Indian or molecular gastronomy. I cannot say this is totally Indian food either.  It is something different. It’s world food with Indian influence. The whole course is a culinary journey.

68/1 Langsuan road, opposite soi 3
Bangkok, Thailand 10330
tel. 026521700

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