J’AIME by Jean-Michel Lorain is the French restaurant located at newly open U Sathorn Hotel. The restaurant is lead by Jean-Michel Lorain the world famous 3 Michelin star chef from Burgundy, France.
Even though the location is in Sathon but is seem really distant from the hustle and bustle of Bangkok. Midway down Ngam Duphli Alley is where this hotel is located; it feels more like a resort with a lot of land, open space and low rise buildings. Who would have thought Bangkok still have areas like this, densely populated and also empty pieces of land.
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We made plans to visit J’Aime one evening. Getting there the traffic was terrible but once we were at U Sathorn it seemed like a whole different world; claim and peaceful. The interior of the restaurant is playful; they call it “upside down”. Columns that look like it’s upside down, hanging piano and chandelier tables are obvious.
To start the evening, the restaurant manager Marine Lorain the daughter of Jean-Michel Lorain recommended a Chardonnay from Macon Villages. It was a refreshing start.
The first course was the onion soup (350 baht). If you can imagine from the photo; a crisp toasted baguette with melting Gruyere cheese with flavors of caramelized onions and veal shank confit. It was an intense mouthful of flavors and texture.
The second course was the ocean oyster terrine with confit shallots, red wine gelée and spinach (910), a beautiful dish of color and texture.
Razor clams in their gelée with savoy cabbage and sea urchin cream (600 baht), it’s interesting how they serve 3 small plates for each item. From the table set up, there was a turn table and even chopstick. Obviously this is not the usual French restaurant. It is a blend of Asia where we like to share while eating.
Smoked salmon and guacamole bonbons with mango vinaigrette (530 baht), I’m thinking this is a Chinese inspired dish. It’s like a salmon wonton with a guacamole filing, but as you can see there is more complexity than what I’m describing.
All the appetizer dishes were carefully prepared and looked too good to eat. I can tell the chef spent a lot of time on them. For mains Pan-seared scallops, chanterelle mushrooms with a cappuccino style foam (1260 Baht). Scallops were cooked just right a bit caramelize outside and sweet and raw inside.
Parmentier-style braised lamb shank with potato mousseline and Époisse cheese gratin (1020 baht): shredded lamb with potatoes, cheese and, crispy bread crumbs. This looked like a simple and unflattering dish but the taste was really intense, combined with a variety of texture makes it like comfort food. Any kid would love this.
Bourguignonne beef cheeks with marinated onions and coriander salad (1550 baht) another interesting dish. Braised beef cheek is pretty common, but serving it with marinate onions was a surprise. The onions were like raw, it does give a different experience from mash potatoes.
For dessert there were 2 options; 3 pieces (420 baht) or 5 (700 baht) pieces. Our selection was; Chocolate and coffee Gâteau Opéra, Passion fruit soufflé and Mille-feuille “napoleon”
J’aime in French means love. I guess this is what the three Michelin star chef, Jean-Michel Lorain had in mind for this new restaurant in CBD Bangkok.