Review of Mezzaluna, Le Bua State Tower, Bangkok

| September 17, 2013

Located at the top of Le Bua State Tower, the large glass windows is the only barrier between you and the street 66 floors down. The views are breath taking especially in the evening, the Chao Phraya glow from the reflection of the sun. Being one of the highest restaurant together with high prices. Mezzaluna come with high expectations.

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The elevator brought us to the 65th floor and we walked up the staircase to Mezzaluna semi-circular dining space. The high-ceiling, dim light and Bangkok city skyline, also listening to the string quartet soothing tunes provides a romantic setting.

Mezzaluna’s twin chefs Thomas and Mathias Sühring offer daily designed 4 or 7 courses tasting menu (4,900 + + Baht and 5,900 Baht + + respectively). There is also an option for wine pairing (2,500 Baht + + for 4 courses pairing and 3,500 Baht + + for 7 courses pairing). We opted for the 7 courses menu with the pairing.

Champagne 1

We started with a glass of cold refreshing Perrier Jouet champagne.

 

Bread and butter

Nice warm homemade bread with top quality olive oil and butter.

best olive oil

Our waitress said that they use the top quality olive oil from an ancient species of olive trees and the best French butter (Bordier butter).

After a short minute of ordering, our waitress brought us bite sizes dishes.

Nibble1

Crispy banana with mixed aromatic herbs and flower.  It was a nice presentation and the sweet and crispy bite was interesting.

Nibble2

Kaffir lime branch skewered with olives and artichokes. Crispy and salty snacks made us eager for more.

Pickled cucumber and alovera with horsradish

Pickled cucumber and aloe vera with horseradish. A refreshing palate cleanser. Only a few minutes we were in our third course and didn’t feel impressed. After complaining to the waitress, we found out that the first course hasn’t even started. These three nibblings are just eye candy teases complimentary by the chefs.

Raw Pickled dry this one

The first course was called seasonal vegetables. It consisted of raw, pickled and dried assorted vegetables served with cured ham and lemon emulsion. The salty ham and sour lemon emulsion enhanced the flavor of the vegetables but what made this dish fun were the different textures of the vegetables.

Whispering angel wine

Paired with Whispering Angel, Château D’ Esclans, Provence, France, 2011. Sweet and fruity with scent of flowers.

Lobster Nova Scotia

The next course was Nova Scotia Lobster poached in anis better served with capsicum, fennel, saffron oil and piment d’ Espelette (French chilli). Nicely poached lobster was served with flavorful capsicum sauce but the sauce did not overpower the soft and sweet lobster.

Chardonnay redbank wine 2

Paired with Chardonnay, The Long Paddock, Redbank, Victoria, Australia, 2005. Excellent pairing, nice and dry wine.

Crispy tile fish

Pacific Red Tilefish slowly preserved in extra virgin olive oil served with eggplant, fermented soybean and seasonal mushroom. This dish was beautifully cooked, soft moist with crispy skin. It is rare to have fish cooked this way with the scales still on the fish. The scales were very tasty and crispy.

tile fish made

The chef showed us how this dish was made. The fish was first cooked in very low temperature extra virgin olive oil, and then the chef poured very hot oil on the fish scales several times until the scales were crispy.

Pinot Grigio wine 3

Paired with Pinot Grigio, Valle Isarco, Abbazia di Novacella, Alto Adige, Italy, 2009. Another nice crisp and dry wine.

Dover sole truffle

The fourth course was also fish but this time Dover Sole roasted on bone with yellow onion, summer truffle, and hazelnut oil.
The aromatic summer truffle was very noticeable as soon as our waitress served us this dish. The Dover Sole was perfectly cooked, moist and sweet.

Savignon blanc wine 4

Paired with Savignon Blanc, Errazuriz, Single Vineyard, Aconcagua Valley, Chile, 2011.  A nice and light Chilean wine that went well with the Dover Sole.

Iberico pork

The fifth course was Iberico Pork Secreto grilled over white binchō charcoal (high quality Japanese charcoal) served with tomatoes, fermented garlic and cos lettuce. The juicy piece of so-called the best pork in the world was delicious, added with the crunch of bacon, how can anyone not like this??

Petalas wine 5

Paired with Pétalos, Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo, Spain, 2010. Refreshing Spanish red wine was perfect with the Spanish Iberico.

Lamb

There were options between lamb and beef for the sixth course. One of us tried the lamb.
Lamb loin seared in a dry pan served with celeriac root, almond matsutake mushroom, and ponzu. Nice juicy lamb cooked rare went very well with the sourness of ponzu.

Kagoshima Beef

Beef option: Kagoshima Wagyu beef rib eye marble grade 3, sous-vide and grill over white binchō charcoal served with celeriac root, almond matsutake mushroom, ponzu, and soy salt. Usually at this point in a meal like this, I would not finish the main. I just don’t want to be too full, but this beef was so flavorful and savory, it disappeared. The fat marbleling is obvious to the eye, when it is taken in the mouth it shows how tasty it is.

Wine 6

Both lamb and beef were paired with Château Larrivet-Haut-Brion, Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2008. A nice red wine with noticeable tannin that cut through the fattiness of the beef and lamb.

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Pre-dessert

Apricot slowcooked

For dessert, apricot slow cooked with rosemary, almond milk, mint and muesli. The different products of apricot were highlighted; the crispy muesli gave a nice contrast to the soft creamy texture of this dessert.

dessert wine

Paired with Gewürztraminer, Special late Harvest, Robertson, SouthAfrica, 2011. Fruity sweet dessert wine that went well with the apricot dessert.

 

Chef in Action

Having experienced the first-class food, service, and ambience at the Sirocco of Le Bua State Tower before, we knew that our visit to Mezzaluna would be quite special. However, Mezzaluna actually exceeded our expectation in all aspects. The service staffs were attentive and knowledgeable. The food and wine were top notch quality.

There is no doubt that Chef Thomas and Mathias Sühring have been the key to Mezzaluna’s success. Indeed their modern European cuisine with subtle Asian has provided what they promise to the customers “a memorable culinary journey”.

Open: Tuesday to Sunday
For more details contact: Tel: 66 2624 9555

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Vasu Srivarathanabul
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