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We were very impressed with the first Water Library in Chamchuri square. We knew there is another branch in Soi Thonglor that open in January, but didn’t have a chance visit until recently. Arriving at the Grass Thonglor a bit early, expecting traffic but there wasn’t any on that Thursday. The Thonglor branch is much smaller but has an outdoor lounge that could be a really nice place to hangout. At the entry, we were greeted by the classy and sexy hostess in black tight dress that exposes a large area of their black. There were 5 of them with model like bodies.
We had a window seat near the bar; the bartender khun Boy greeted us and recommended some cocktails. For my date he made a “passion tonight” served in a cone glass on to a bowl of ice. My cocktails was Sexy Lychee; one of the ingredient is the sexy bitter which I’m told there are only 200 bottles of them. The dining concept here is different from the one in Chamchuri square; 1st floor serves tapas with cocktails, wine or whatever drink you could think of, they probably will have it. The 2nd floor is a chef table concept only 10 seats reservation is a must. Only 3 choices; with wines (8,400), without wine (6,600), with premium wines (16,800).
the menu was sealed in a black envelope
Not long, it started to get busy, that’s when our time was up. We were invited by the restaurant manage khun Sua to the 2nd floor. On the narrow flight upstairs I notice a beautiful bottle of Louis XIII. I don’t see them around often. We were seated on a high stool with armrest in front of a long continuous table. Behind the table were the chefs.
The meal started with Champagne, Louis Roederer Brut Premier N.V., Reims; it was fruity with an appealing apple bouquet.
The Champagne pared with Farmed Beluga Caviar, Iberico Ham Jelly, Ratte Espuma, a combination of interesting textures and taste.
Heirloom Carrot was very complex it was served on a carrot crème brulee, roasted with cumin caramel, a dash of orange puree, Japanese horsehair crab and uni.
Then a spoon with a white tablet appeared on the table, soon after the server/hostess poured something on it, it started to grow but it wasn’t in the menu nor was it edible. It turns out to be a towel for the next dish.
Another surprise at the table was a box of donuts. I love donuts but I try to keep away from it for health reasons. Opening the box with excitement I took a bite before taking a photo. It was completely different from what it looked, nonetheless satisfying. Fresh Italian bread in the shape of a donut sprinkled with air dried chorizo (Spanish sausage). Serve with chorizo on a stick and a potato based dip. A bit of misconception, well received.
The 2nd wine was Riesling Tradition, Weingut Robert Weil 2009, Rheingau, Germany; it has a lush mouthful, light sweetness with aroma of citrus and passion fruit. It was paired with the next 2 dishes.
Another beautiful dish based on tomatoes; Cerises Jaunes tomatoes processed with nitrogen to form an icy yellow tomato sorbet. With a tomato sponge and foam hidden underneath is Tarbouriech Oyster, and seawater. The 3 textured tomato varieties accompanied to the pink oyster very well.
The presentation looked very appealing; Perigord foie gras, beetroots, sakura smoked ayu, hibiscus vinaigrette but the portion was too small. I wish there was more.
Chardonnay Marina Cvetic IGT Masciarelli 2007, Abruzzo, Italy; it reminded me of caramel and a spicy after taste. Paired with warm white asparagus, comte cheese, suckling pig and puffed wild rice which add depth and complexity to this dish. Three body parts of the sucking pig was cooked perfectly; belly, tongue, ear.
Poached brittany lobster, pumpkin compression (the cubs), veloute of sea urchin and puff pastry on top. The seas urchin sauce compliments the sweet lobster very well.
Volnay Champans Premier Cru, Domaine Marquis d’Angerville 2006, Burgundy, France is a pinot noir, medium body, bitter berry and a hint of coffee. The wines were refilled frequent by khun Sua or one the hot hostess/ waitress; I never had to ask for a refill.
Bluefin Tuna Belly OTORO, Jerusalem Artichoke Ragout, Merlot Reduction; this is the most simple dish for that night. That fat from the tuna was bursting with flavor.
Another red from France; Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve, Domaine du Pegau 2006, Rhone Valley with complex scents of red and dark berries, cherry and a long after taste.
Challans duck roasted with lavender, endives; peppery poivrade sauce complimented the gamey duck and bitter endives very well.
A sweet wine; Moscato Possito, La Spinetta 2005, Piedmont, Italy
The chef said the first dessert is a tribute to Alain Passard’s the chef of 3 michelin star restaurant L’Arpège; baked tomato with vine with Gorgonzola ice cream.
Next was a classic “peach melba” but very different from the ones I’ve had; sous vide peach, strawberry sorbet, tarragon foam.
Petit 5; instead of 4 it’s 5.
During the whole dining experience the celebrity chef Haikal Johari talked to all the dinners about each dish. Everyone seems to enjoy it; most of the dishes were left empty. The only thing some customers might complain about is the portion of each dish is not enough. I think the experience here is like going to an interactive art exhibition. The food looked beautiful every dish is like a work of art. The variety of texture, taste, is a great experience.
The Grass Thonglor (Dinner Only), Bangkok, Thailand
Phone: 02 7149292