Recently I had a chance to try many of the restaurants at the Nihonmura mall in Soi Thonglor 13. One of the places that I was interested to revisit was Yashin by Tenyuu. Yashin serves edomae sushi and also offers omakase, quite a rare combination for sushi places in Bangkok. In addition, all the fish here is aged and marinated to emulate the old edo era as well as to accentuate the quality of the fish. Chef Boss, the head chef, cooks and informs the diners about the food he creates.
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With that, it made me return to Yashin. Omakase simply means “chef’s choice”. You select the number of dishes 10, 12, 15, 20, which will cost from 2,500 to 5,000 baht. The chef will customize the meal for you according to your preference. Omakase is the kind of dining experience that diners will get personal interaction with the chef. Yashin has approximately 34 seats. For omakase, the chef will serve no more than a group of 6 people but in some cases he is willing to to serve omakase for a party of 8. The reason behind this limit is the chef’s concern for serving pace, each course must not be too far apart in order to get the best sushi experience. For the evening, I had the 4,500 baht Omakase.
Irish oyster with homemade ponzu topped with diakon and chili. The oyster was sweet and the ponzu was well seasoned, a bit tangy and just the right amount of salt and sweetness.
Kinmedai or golden eye snapper (right) wrapped seaweed and akamutsu or blue fish (left). The chef recommended to start from the right, which was less oily fish. I thought kinmedai was quite bland but the akamutsu was much sweeter and more pleasant.
Shiro ebi, very small white shrimps served with fermented squid intestine. The shrimp was sweet but the texture was mushy. The fermented squid intestine was salty and did not add much value to the shrimps.
Snow crab topped with seasoned crab intestine with dashi stock and vinegar jelly. The crab meat was very sweet, while the seasoned crab intestine had the right amount of saltiness. The jelly was quite refreshing.
Awabi sakamushi or abalone served with abalone liver sauce. The abalone was well cooked, tender and sweet. The liver sauce was creamy and well seasoned.
Suzuki or Japanese seabass served with homemade shoyu. In every bite, it is ready to eat. The chef will season with wasabi or shoyu as he sees fit. This fish was light and quite sweet. The rice was also the right amount. The chef doesn’t squeeze the rice too tight, so he recommended that I use hands instead of chopsticks.
Uni and scallop wrapped with seaweed tempura, served with a squeeze of lemon and Himalaya salt. The scallop was sweet, the uni was luscious, while the seaweed was a bit crispy, a very nice executed dish.
Otoro was luxurious and melted in the mouth. To enhance the flavor, the chef allow the fatty tuna to melt by kept it room temperature for a while before served.
Tiger shrimp brushed with special sauce.
Tiger shrimp, sweet and well seasoned
Shima aji or large Japanese mackerel, not light but also not that oily.
Gizzard shad sushi, considered one of the original edomae items. It was cured with salt and vinegar. It tasted a bit oilier than the shima aji.
Chawan mushi with uni. The egg custard was very smooth. The chef said the secret ingredient to this smoothness was the Japanese mountain jam.
Otoro aged in kombu for two days before grilled served with pickled wasabi. Normally I don’t like cooked tuna but this dish was ok. Still a nice piece of otoro should be served raw.
Unagi cooked in house by the chef. The eel was well cooked and tender. The bones were stewed to make the sauce.
Tamago looked very much like a Japanese cheese cake. Apart from the egg, it is made of shrimp, squid and some Japanese mountain jam.It was too sweet for my tasye. The texture was spongy not as smooth as it should be.
Sweet Japanese melon to end the meal.
The food and the sequence were well planned. The first time I was here, I felt the chef was very good at his job, not too much and not too little. However, this time it was different as I felt the chef was not as warm as last time. It felt like having the same show.
When you are sitting on a stool facing the chef, it can get tricky. The chef is standing tall in close range in front of you, so his conversation with you can become more of a teaching than entertaining. I do believe that the head chef is the strength and weakness all in one. The second time was not as enjoyable as the first.
Yashin By Tenyu, Nihinmura Mall ThongLor soi 13
For reservation and questions call: 02-712-6868 , 087-508-9395